The main components were sourced from my local Maplins. Unfortunately I had to make do with whatever stock they had. Personally I would have preferred a 'figure of eight' two-pin power socket rather than the three-pin 'kettle lead' type that they had in stock. Also the sockets and plugs for the leads to the lights are rather big, but, I wasn't entirely convinced about using CAT5 and opted for thicker cable in the end.

The three pin plugs for the light leads are XLR type, with Maplin code BE89W

The XLR sockets are Maplin code KC53

Spacers are required to raise the circuit board up from the base of the case. These are Maplin code FS36

The mains power socket is Maplin code HL15

The case itself is Maplin code BZ75 it is quite large but this was necessary because of the connectors I was using. It also leaves some room for other components to be added like some form of controller.

The first step is to cut the hole for the power socket. I marked the case first with pencil. Then drilled the corners of the area to be cut.

A mini-cutter (like a Dremel) was used to cut out the hole, making sure that it was not too large and would be covered by the edges of the socket

Small holes were drilled for the bolts which will hold the power socket in place.

I bought these nuts and bolts, but using a 3mm drill bit to make the holes in the case I found that the bolts could be used without nuts.

Next step was to cut holes for the XLR sockets. Unfortunately I didn't have a drill bit the right size (I would guess a 20mm would be right). So I had to drill a smaller hole and then use a mini sanding drum to make it larger. The 'faceplates' of the sockets would cover up my rough edges.

The finished case isn't too bad,it could be neater with black screws or smaller sockets, but it is never going to be seen, so I'm happy.

Now it's just a question of connecting the circuit board to the sockets. The power in socket has spade connector which make it easy, but the back of the XLR sockets require soldering.

I just pulled some wire out of a mains lead, far more than is required for the low voltage and current, but there was no point in buying cable specially for this.

Unfortunately I could not source the right plugs for the connectors that are already on the circuit board. So I decided to remove them.

The arrows show where the solder on the existing connectors needs to be melted to remove them. It seems that the solder on the board is fairly high melting, so a very hot soldering iron is required.

Here the connectors have been removed and the holes in the board cleaned a little so that the wires can be pushed through.

There are of course only two wires for the AC connection and two holes in the board. For the DC connection I needed two pairs, so the two live wires were twisted together and pushed into a single hole. The two ground wires could actually go into adjacent holes as they were commoned on the tracking.

The base of the case was marked in line with the corners of the board, then drilled and the spacers added.

Finally everything is connected up and the case can be screwed shut.

All that remained was for the cables to be made up using the XLR plugs on one end and spade connectors on the other. I decided to connect up all three wires on the cable so that in the future, if there was a controller added within the case, then the connections would be ready in all the lights.